Our Trip to Europe’s Christmas Markets
For Thanksgiving this year we decided to hop the pond and spend some time exploring the iconic Christmas markets of Europe. Christmas markets in Europe trace their origins to the Late Middle Ages, with the earliest known examples appearing in German-speaking regions during the 14th and 15th centuries. Initially, these markets were not festive attractions but practical winter markets, allowing communities to stock up on food, firewood, and household goods during the cold months.
One of the earliest recorded markets is the Strasbourg Christmas Market, established in 1570, often cited as the oldest still operating today. Around the same period, markets emerged in cities such as Nuremberg, Munich, and Vienna, typically held near town squares or the town’s church or cathedral.
Over time, these winter markets became increasingly tied to Advent traditions. By the 16th century, they began incorporating seasonal crafts, Christian-oriented items, and early forms of gift-giving, especially as Christmas itself became more family-centered. The rise of mulled wine (referred to as Hot Wine, Glühwein, or Vin Chaud) and spiced baked goods helped transform the markets into social gathering places rather than purely commercial spaces.
During the 19th century, Christmas markets took on much of the character recognized today. This is what I had in my mind, and the real-life experience lived up to the hype. Imagine decorated wooden stalls, festive lights, and regional craft and cuisine specialties. They truly are a showcase of hyper-local identity, showcasing traditional crafts, foods, and folklore of that town, often with variation even 20 minutes away.
In the 20th century, Christmas markets experienced periods of decline, particularly during wartime, but saw a strong revival in the post-World War II era. From the late 20th century onward, they expanded rapidly across Europe and beyond, becoming major cultural and tourism attractions.
Today, Europe’s Christmas markets range from deeply traditional to boldly reimagined. As I was doing research on where to go, Iconic markets in cities such as Strasbourg, Nuremberg, Vienna, and Cologne are known for their historic settings, centuries-old recipes, and classic wooden chalets, drawing visitors seeking a quintessential festive atmosphere. At the same time, other destinations have put their own spin on the tradition: Berlin and Copenhagen emphasize contemporary design and street-food culture, Basel and Zurich highlight refined craftsmanship and culinary quality, while cities like Barcelona and London blend local customs with international influences. Beyond Europe, Christmas markets have been adapted around the world, inspired by German and Alsatian originals but reshaped by local tastes, climates, and cultures, resulting in a tradition that continues to evolve while remaining rooted in history.
Why Christmas Markets in the Alsace Region

After looking at various regions to visit, I decided on the Alsace due to its compact geography and variety. Unlike regions where markets are spread across large cities or require long travel days, we were able to get between each town with a quick 20 minute train ride. The various towns and cities provide wide variety, from fairytale villages like Riquewihr and Kaysersberg, historic cities such as Strasbourg and Colmar, and different national cultures in Germany (Freiburg) and Switzerland (Basel and Zurich).
the daily sight, bite, highlight:
In order for each day (1-7) these were the sight, bite, and highlight of each day. Some days had delights and frights this trip, all of which is expanded on in the detailed itinerary.
| Sight | Bite | Highlight |
|---|---|---|
| Colmar’s Half Timber Houses | Warm Drinks in the Markets | Colmar’s various Christmas markets |
| Mulhouse Town Center | Munstiflette | Purchased hand carved, hand painted wooden ornaments |
| Strasbourg Christmas Tree & Cathedral | Crepes | Strasbourg Christmas Markets at Night |
| Riquewihr | White Asparagus Soup | Kaysersberg Christmas Market & Wine Hill Climb |
| Freiburg: A Town on the Edge of the Black Forest | Freiburger Rote | Social, “Oktoberfest-vibes” markets in Freiburg |
| Basel’s Old Town | Fire Roasted Salmon | Basel’s Cathedral Christmas market food |
| Zurich’s City Center | Fondue in a Swiss Chalet | Zurich’s “Singing Christmas Tree“ |
Travel and accomodations
Air & Destination travel
Arrival: Our trip was 7 total days. We flew into CDG via SEA and enjoyed our first experience on Delta One Business Class on Delta’s A330-900neo aircraft. There is a high-speed train that leaves directly from the CDG airport toward Strasbourg, where we transferred to local rail to arrive at Colmar. This journey is about 2.5 hours and the trains were on-time and comfortable.
Departure: We returned home out of ZRH via JFK where we also enjoyed our first experience on Delta One Business Class on Delta’s B767-400ER aircraft. I would never recommend flying out of ZRH again (A Fright of the trip) as it was the worst airport in Europe I’ve been to. Luckily, flying business class, you do get a dedicated security line that cuts your security wait from about 3 hours to 2 hours before taking an unorganized, chaotic train out to the international terminal.
Travel Between Destinations: We used trains to navigate between all cities. About 20-30 minute train rides each and they were all no-reservation trains. I booked all trains in USD via Trainline app.
| Departure | Arrival | Duration | Type / Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| CDG | Colmar, via Strasbourg | 3hr, 1 change | High speed Inoui (reservation req.) → TER (regional) |
| Colmar | Mulhouse | 25 min | TER (regional) |
| Colmar | Strasbourg | 35 min | TER (regional) |
| Strasbourg | Freiburg via Offenburg | 1.5 hrs, 1 change | DBB |
| Freiburg | Basel | 45 min | DBB |
| Basel | Zurich | 1hr | SBB |
“Unicorn” / Mistake Fares: For this trip’s flights, I leveraged an odd unicorn fare that I found. The flights I booked were a multi-city booking from SEA → CDG and then ZRH → SLC (via JFK). A few reasons I looked at these:
- Competitive Markets: As I’m based in SLC which is not a competitive market, often times flights are more expensive to/from SLC, even if they’re shorter. I always prefer to fly Delta and so I always look at Delta’s other more competitive hubs to see if there are better fares. SEA is currently in the midst of a turf war between Alaskan as they complete their merger with Hawaiian and aim to make SEA their ATL equivalent to Delta. Many years ago, Delta and Alaskan had a strategic partnership and code-shared flights but Delta decided to pivot and make SEA a hub of it’s own to share the transpacific load with it’s other, busier west coast hub: LAX. As such, the two airlines compete on price out of SEA and so a great deal from SEA to CDG was available.
- Multi-City Route Strategy: Particularly for Europe, some airports charge higher exit fees than others, which is incorporated into cost. Further, sometimes it just makes sense to fly out of a different place! For this trip, I knew there was a high speed train from CDG so flying into CDG was great. However, we were ending in Switzerland and, although there is a 3.5hr high-speed train from Zurich and Geneva to Paris that I’ve taken before, I’d rather have my last night be in Switzerland given the shorter length of our trip. It turned out to be cheaper to fly to JFK (another competitive hub) and so that is what we did.
- Non-Hub Airports (sometimes): Knowing the alliance that your preferred airline is in is very important for international travel as you’ll most likely “skip the pond” or “the lake” via one of these partner hubs. The three main ones are SkyTeam, Star Alliance, and Oneworld. Delta is a member of SkyTeam and so, for Europe, this means KLM (AMS), AirFrance (CDG), and Virgin (LHR). However, for airports that are dominated by other alliances like ZRH is (SwissAir – part of Star Alliance) finding a Delta operated flight from there meant that Delta was trying to compete with them. Sure enough, they are and (apparently) failing as they will be cutting this route soon. Good deals are to be found when there is competition!
So, for this flight, I booked our flights in Delta One from SEA → CDG and then in Premium Select from ZRH → SLC for 200,000 Delta SkyMiles. I had a lot of SkyMiles banked up from business travel, and note, this is after the 15% off that you get from a Delta credit card. I think that this is one of the most underrated perks of a Delta credit card because, admittedly, many of the benefits and the earn-rate is sub-par. Delta SkyMiles are not known for being a very valuable points currency. However, as the standard “expected” redemption of about a cent ($2,000), where these flights cost about $5,000 cash, this was a steal. Then, to get Delta One on the way back, I applied a Global Upgrade Certificate and was confirmed to Delta One from ZRH → JFK and First Class from JFK → SLC. Global Upgrade Certificates are available to frequent flyers of Delta who hit Diamond Status in the year and are good for a one-class upgrade (in this case, premium select to D1) for one way for one person. Since Delta does not do complementary upgrades to D1 on its Europe routes, this is really the only way to upgrade into the business class without paying.
Accomodations:
I typically prefer to have a home base and go from there. For this trip, we did move around more than normal, given the proximity of the locations and the ease of movement aided by our Cotopaxi bags.
If you would like to use my rubric for scoring or want more details on the categories, see the score card here or go to the ‘about’ page to learn more.
We stayed at 5 hotels, with my full review of each listed below:
My Final Score:
3.97
This five-star spa hotel, which housed a 2 Michelin-star restaurant, was superb. It is always a thrill when a five-star rated hotel lives up to its rating, doesn’t feel like they’re out to get you, and goes the extra mile. This hotel certainly did, particularly for Christmas time, with several friendly gifts, turn-down service, and some of the best bar service I’ve ever had. A trip to the spa is a must, with one hour included in your stay.
| Hotel Name | L’Esquisse Hotel and Spa Colmar |
| City | Colmar, FR |
| 4.7 (899) – 11/25 | |
| Tripadvisor | 4.5 (175) – 11/25 |
| Rated | ★★★★★ |
| Affiliation | SLH. Booked via Hilton |
| Avg. Cost / Night (November) | $300 |
| Points | Y. Booked w/points. 100k Hilton. |
| SBH Rubric Categories | My Score |
| Shit Score | ★★★☆☆ |
| Postcard Proximity | ★★★☆☆ |
| Stroll Score | ★★★☆☆ |
| Eye Candy Quotient | ★★★☆☆ |
| Snack Attack | ★★★★☆ |
| Fuel Score | ★★★★☆ |
| Kitchen Cred | ★★★★★ |
| Shower Power Hour | ★★★★☆ |
| Outlet Olympics | ★★★★★ |
| Deck the Halls | ★★★★★ |
| Knockout Score | ★★★★☆ |
| First Day? | ★★★★★ |
| Local Champion | ★★★★★ |
| Nickle and Dime | ★★★★★ |
| Welcome Committee | ★★★★★ |
| Maze Runner | ★★★★☆ |
| Bob the Builder | |
| No Ragrets | ★★★★★ |
My Final Score:
2.925
This four-star hotel in Strasbourg was a solid choice. With a great courtyard that lets in natural light, a good breakfast offering, and a generally good vibe it’s a great choice in the often expensive city of Strasbourg. However, it is far from everything, including the train station, leading you to want to be closer to the sites – particularly during the Christmas season.
| Hotel Name | Leonor Hotel |
| City | Strasbourg, FR |
| 4.7 (1,051) – 11/25 | |
| Tripadvisor | 4.4 (192) – 11/25 |
| Rated | ★★★★☆ |
| Affiliation | Independent. Booked via Capital One. |
| Avg. Cost / Night (November) | $250 |
| Points | N. |
| SBH Rubric Categories | My Score |
| Shit Score | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
| Postcard Proximity | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Stroll Score | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Eye Candy Quotient | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Snack Attack | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Fuel Score | ★★★☆☆ |
| Kitchen Cred | |
| Shower Power Hour | ★★★☆☆ |
| Outlet Olympics | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Deck the Halls | ★★★☆☆ |
| Knockout Score | ★★★★☆ |
| First Day? | ★★★★★ |
| Local Champion | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
| Nickle and Dime | ★★★★★ |
| Welcome Committee | ★★★☆☆ |
| Maze Runner | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Bob the Builder | ★★★★★ |
| No Ragrets | ★★★★★ |
My Final Score:
1.4875
This “four-star” Marriott in Freiburg wins on price (very cheap) and ‘newness’ as it’s a very modern, new hotel. However, without status as Marriott, there was really not much for you and you received less than superior support. No breakfast, food didn’t look great, and limited perks. The layout was confusing; it was on the busier side, but the bathroom stood out as fantastic, although frustrating with many lights to cover up for a good sleep. Overall, it is what you would expect from a Courtyard by Marriott.
| Hotel Name | Courtyard Freiburg (by Marriott) |
| City | Freiburg im Breisgau, DE |
| 4.5 (465) – 11/25 | |
| Tripadvisor | 4.3 (72) – 11/25 |
| Rated | ★★★★☆ |
| Affiliation | Marriott. Booked via Capital One. |
| Avg. Cost / Night (November) | $100 |
| Points | Y. (Bonvoy) – did not use |
| SBH Rubric Categories | My Score |
| Shit Score | ★★★☆☆ |
| Postcard Proximity | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Stroll Score | ★★★☆☆ |
| Eye Candy Quotient | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Snack Attack | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Fuel Score | |
| Kitchen Cred | |
| Shower Power Hour | ★★★★☆ |
| Outlet Olympics | ★★★★☆ |
| Deck the Halls | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Knockout Score | ★★★☆☆ |
| First Day? | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
| Local Champion | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
| Nickle and Dime | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
| Welcome Committee | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Maze Runner | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Bob the Builder | |
| No Ragrets | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
My Final Score:
1.8875
This “four-star” independent hotel in Basel again wins on price (very cheap for Switzerland). The lobby is small, the rooms very dated (although, a dated European room has storm shutters that make it very dark!). They touted to be recently renovated so, I would hate to have seen it before. Ultimately, better places to stay, and probably not worth it even for the low price.
| Hotel Name | Hotel D |
| City | Basel, CH |
| 4.5 (470) – 11/25 | |
| Tripadvisor | 4.4 (1,322) – 11/25 |
| Rated | ★★★★☆ |
| Affiliation | None. Booked via Capital One. |
| Avg. Cost / Night (November) | $150 |
| Points | N. |
| SBH Rubric Categories | My Score |
| Shit Score | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
| Postcard Proximity | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Stroll Score | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Eye Candy Quotient | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Snack Attack | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Fuel Score | |
| Kitchen Cred | |
| Shower Power Hour | ★★★☆☆ |
| Outlet Olympics | ★★★★☆ |
| Deck the Halls | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Knockout Score | ★★☆☆☆ |
| First Day? | ★★★★★ |
| Local Champion | ★★★★★ |
| Nickle and Dime | ★★★★★ |
| Welcome Committee | ★★★☆☆ |
| Maze Runner | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
| Bob the Builder | |
| No Ragrets | ☆☆☆☆☆ |
My Final Score:
3.9
This four-star SLH hotel in Zurich really felt like a five-star hotel. The design was fantastic with each level being themed after a different country (an homage to the name), a plated breakfast that was superb, and Bulgari bath amenities. The lights were all controlled by smart switches and location, although removed from all the sites, it was quiet and close to a major train station (just not a metro or walking to other places). However, that said, hard to justify the price of this hotel at nearly $700 a night so seek free night certificate use or points.
| Hotel Name | Ambassador Zurich Hotel |
| City | Zurich, CH |
| 4.6 (549) – 11/25 | |
| Tripadvisor | 4.5 (757) – 11/25 |
| Rated | ★★★★☆ |
| Affiliation | SLH. Booked via Hilton. |
| Avg. Cost / Night (November) | $700 |
| Points | Y. Used Hilton Free Night Cert (aspire card) |
| SBH Rubric Categories | My Score |
| Shit Score | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Postcard Proximity | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Stroll Score | ★★★☆☆ |
| Eye Candy Quotient | ★★★★☆ |
| Snack Attack | ★★★★☆ |
| Fuel Score | ★★★★☆ |
| Kitchen Cred | |
| Shower Power Hour | ★★★★☆ |
| Outlet Olympics | ★★★★☆ |
| Deck the Halls | ★★★☆☆ |
| Knockout Score | ★★★★☆ |
| First Day? | ★★★★★ |
| Local Champion | ★★★★★ |
| Nickle and Dime | ★★★★★ |
| Welcome Committee | ★★★☆☆ |
| Maze Runner | ★★★★☆ |
| Bob the Builder | |
| No Ragrets | ★★★★★ |
Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival & Colmar



Overview of the Day
Day one was intentionally light and exploratory, shaped as much by jet lag as by curiosity. After arriving in Alsace via ~3hr train ride after the 10hrs of flight, Colmar served as an ideal introduction to both the region and the mechanics of Christmas markets more broadly. Nothing about the day felt rushed or over-programmed; instead, it was about orienting ourselves. For the first day in a city, I like to have a half day of just unstructured ‘roaming’ to see what we run into. For this one in particular, understanding how Christmas markets worked (e.g. how the markets are laid out, what types of vendors to expect, and how the atmosphere shifts from daylight into evening) was key for day 1 orientation. Colmar delivered exactly what we hoped for on a first day: immediate charm, manageable scale, and just enough novelty to build momentum for the days ahead.
Sight: Colmar’s Half-Timbered Houses

Colmar’s half-timbered houses make you feel like you’re on set for the beauty and the beast or living side by side with the Von Trapp family. These structures date primarily to the late Middle Ages and Renaissance, when timber framing was both practical and expressive. So, with these homes, wooden beams formed the structural skeleton, while the infill panels were plastered and then painted. In Alsace, this style evolved with particularly ornate detailing and vibrant colors, partly as a display of civic pride and partly as a reflection of the region’s long oscillation between French and German influence. You can see the melding of German and French influences everywhere and it’s very impressive how intact and cohesive the old town feels, having largely been spared from WWII’s destructive forces that affected most the region. Rather than isolated “historic” streets, Colmar’s whole town reads as a continuous architectural language, which makes wandering an absolute joy.
Bite: Warm Drinks in the Markets
Our first mulled wine of the trip was, bluntly, terrible. Honestly hard to swallow. We got red wine and it just felt very alcoholic, aggressively spiced, and just.. bad. Thankfully, this was not representative of the whole but we did have a more discerning eye going forward. As we tried more stalls, it became clear that not all vin chaud is created equal. Further, the warm apple, pear, and other fruit ciders were absolutely wonderful. We both gravitated toward the white mulled wine and apple cider, which makes complete sense in Alsace, a region best known for its whites. The balance was better, the aromatics more restrained, and the overall experience far more drinkable. It was an early reminder that even something as ubiquitous as mulled wine varies widely by vendor, recipe, and regional tradition.
Highlight: Colmar’s Christmas Markets
Colmar quickly established itself as one of the most charming Christmas market towns in the region. The markets aren’t massive, but that’s part of their appeal. There are roughly five distinct markets, each occupying a small square or street, with clusters of temporary wooden chalets set up for the season. Visiting on a weekday made a noticeable difference—crowds were manageable, and there was a real emphasis on merchandise rather than wall-to-wall food stalls. We picked up beautifully hand-carved wooden ornaments here. A particularly Colmar-specific moment was learning about the cathedral’s resident storks, Martin and MarTIN. These local mascots are rendered everywhere from signage to ceramics so we couldn’t resist purchasing a hand-painted ceramic platter featuring the two of them.
Delight: First Time flying Delta One
The quiet delight of the day was my first time flying Delta One. The hard product lived up to the hype, particularly the fully closing door, which only exists on a subset of Delta’s fleet (a330-900 and a350) and makes a real difference on an overnight flight. The Delta One Lounge in Seattle was fine: solid food, but otherwise fairly unremarkable and a bit underwhelming given the branding. Still, once onboard, everything was great – comfortable, private, and genuinely restful.
day 2: Mulhouse



Overview of the Day:
We carved out Mulhouse as a half-day trip from Colmar because it’s one of the unique Christmas market stops in Alsace. Mulhouse is small, distinctive, and has its own cultural twist. Mulhouse is also home to the National Automobile Museum, widely regarded as one of the largest car museums in the world with one of the most comprehensive collections of historic automobiles built around the legendary Schlumpf Collection. It’s a cool juxtaposition to the more traditional market towns: classic European cars of all eras, followed by tiny wooden chalets selling crafts and seasonal wares. We got here quickly from Colmar (about a 20-minute train ride), spend about 6 hours wandering the square and museum, and then headed back.I don’t think there’s much need to stay overnight here. It is small and sleepy, but a wonderful half day excursion.
Sight: Mulhouse Town Center
Mulhouse’s main draw for us was different from Colmar. It lacked the sprawling old-town fairyland feel, but the center was a very classic, European grand center. The Christmas market sits in the main cathedral square, anchored by the towering Saint-Étienne Cathedral that dominates the skyline (like in most European towns).What makes Mulhouse stand out for Christmas markets is its textile heritage. Each year, the city commissions a unique Christmas fabric that becomes the visual theme of the market. We saw it draped over façades, on fountains, decorating stalls, and even inspiring craft items. This tradition is a nod to Mulhouse’s identity as a historic textile city, where fabric design and printing were once central to its economy. We got a fun ornament in the textile of the year, but you could get this years and past years textiles represented in tablecloths, aprons, and other goods.
Bite: Munstiflette
Lunch in Mulhouse was Munstiflette, and if you’ve ever wondered what happens when tartiflette heads east, this is it. Munstiflette is essentially the Alsatian cousin of that Alpine classic, swapping in Munster cheese from the region for the usual reblochon and layering it over potatoes, onions, lardons, cream, a splash of white wine. This is exciting to see at the stalls as a bubbling, golden-topped casserole that’s rich, incredibly satisfying, and exactly the sort of meal you need when it’s cold outside. We shared a bowl in the market square, paired with a sausage alongside, and it was absolutely the right move for a crisp winter day.
Highlight: Hand Carved, Hand-Painted Ornaments

Mulhouse’s Christmas market may be one of the smaller ones we visited, but that made the browsing feel less frenetic and more deliberate. The main square was filled with a really nice mix of ornaments, textiles, and jewelry. Here we got some jewelry and ornaments, which started our little tradition of one ornament per market. Even though it didn’t have the scale of Strasbourg or Colmar, this market felt authentic and local, with elderly ladies perusing the fabric offerings of the year and buying items for their families for Christmas.
Delight: Hotel Spa
The day’s delight was an unexpected 2 hour break we had between arriving back in Colmar from Mulhouse and heading out to Dinner. To fill the time, we spent a couple of hours in the spa at L’Esquisse Hotel – an included benefit of staying at the property. Between the cold streets of Mulhouse and the slow walk through the markets, it was absolutely rejuvenating to soak in the warm pools, hang out in steam rooms and relaxation areas, and spend a few minutes in the sauna. Would highly recommend adding a spa session or booking a hotel that has a spa/pools to an itinerary for the Christmas markets, as we felt it really fit the vibe of Christmas and winter in Europe.
Day 3: Strasbourg





Overview of the Day:
Strasbourg is where Christmas markets go from charming to maximalist, and where scale really starts to matter. Compared to Colmar and Mulhouse, Strasbourg felt busy, energetic, and unapologetically festive. We spent most of the day moving between markets, ducking into side streets, warming up with food and drinks, and then stayed into the evening for the lights. This was also Thanksgiving, which was a fun fusion of American and global holidays for us.
Sight: Strasbourg Christmas Tree & Cathedral
Strasbourg is often referred to as the “Capital of Noel”, and it earns that title historically, not just through marketing. The city hosted one of the earliest recorded Christmas markets in Europe, dating back to the late 1500s, originally called the Christkindelsmarik. Over time, that market expanded into multiple neighborhoods, and today Strasbourg operates more than ten distinct Christmas markets spread across the city. The cathedral anchors much of this experience. Strasbourg Cathedral dominates the skyline, and the markets around it feel appropriately grand. The city leans fully into Christmas, and it shows. This was the largest and most diverse set of markets we visited, with offerings that genuinely felt like there was something for everyone. We found beautiful pottery here and one of our favorite drinks of the trip, a warm pear and vanilla juice that felt festive without being overly sweet.
Bite: Crepes

Crepes felt like the obvious choice in Strasbourg, a major city of the dishes creating country. A dedicated crepe hut in the markets did not disappoint. We split both savory and sweet versions, which is always the right move, particularly when the sweet involves Nutella. Crepes originated in the Brittany region of France and are made from a simple batter of flour, eggs, milk, and butter, cooked thin on a flat griddle. Savory crepes are traditionally made with buckwheat flour and filled with things like cheese, ham, and egg, while sweet crepes lean into sugar, butter, and spreads. A Nutella crepe in France just hits different, particularly the ones we got which were warm, soft, slightly crisp at the edges, and perfect for walking between markets. It is simple food done extremely well and fits the vibes of Christmas markets well.
Highlight: Strasbourg Christmas Markets at Nights
Strasbourg at night was awesome and easily the best city for night-time markets. The main Christmas tree, located near Place Kléber, is enormous, standing over one hundred feet tall, and becomes the centerpiece for an hourly light and music show. Lights ripple across the tree and nearby buildings, music plays, and the cinematic performance was a good representation of Strasbourg’s Christmas maximalist brand. The tree is also perfectly positioned next to one of the more food focused markets, which made it ideal for handheld dinner and warm drinks while wandering.
Delight: French Farm to Table Thanksgiving Dinner

Ending the day with a Thanksgiving dinner in France was a delight. This was my third time spending Thanksgiving abroad, and it continues to be one of my favorite holidays to travel. Flights are often cheaper, streets are quieter, and Europe is in a shoulder season sweet spot where Christmas markets are open but peak crowds have not fully arrived. Winter vibes are in full effect. That said, there are tradeoffs. Days are shorter, temperatures are colder, and in some countries, many things close or operate on limited hours. Dinner at Au Coin Des Pucelles was one of the reasons why it is fun to be in Europe for thanksgiving (particularly as we were with some family for this trip). The small, 7 table restaurant leaned into a farm to table approach, growing many of it’s own vegetables and herbs (even in winter). They served traditional French and Alsacian foods that were cozy and Thanksgiving-esque which finished the night perfectly.
Fright: The Astronomical Clock at Strasbourg Cathedral

This one was a rare miss. Inside Strasbourg Cathedral is the famous astronomical clock, an incredibly intricate piece of Renaissance era craftsmanship that draws a large crowd whenever it is about to perform. We stumbled into the buildup as people began clustering tightly, jockeying for position, and generally getting a bit shovey. That alone set expectations high. When the moment finally came, the payoff was underwhelming. A small wooden figurine emerged, made a single, slow pass, and then that was essentially it. The whole thing was over almost as soon as it started. I hesitate to ever say something is not worth it, because travel experiences are subjective, and curiosity is part of the fun. This one, though, I can say pretty definitively is not worth waiting or crowding for. My recommendation would actually be the opposite. Let it happen, let the crowd disperse, and then take your time looking at the clock itself. The craftsmanship, detail, and mechanics are genuinely beautiful when viewed up close and without the chaos.
Day 4: Alsace Villages








Overview of the Day
If I had to pick one place that captured everything I loved about this trip, it would be the small villages of Alsace. We visited two of them on this day: Riquewihr and Kaysergsberg and it felt like stepping fully into Alsace as a region, not just Christmas markets as an activity. We left Strasbourg in the morning, took the train back to Colmar, and then hopped on one of the weekend Christmas market buses that run from Colmar out to the surrounding villages. It is an incredibly easy system and a great alternative to driving. About thirty minutes later, we were dropped off in wine country. This was a slower day in the best way, focused on walking, eating, and soaking in places that felt remarkably preserved.
Sight: Riquewihr
Riquewihr was my favorite town of the entire trip. The village is essentially one long main road that runs straight through the center, bookended by old gates that were once part of the town walls. Everything funnels through this promenade, which makes it feel intimate and intentional. While Riquewihr does technically have a Christmas market, the real appeal is not the temporary wooden stalls. It is that nearly every permanent shop along the main street is decorated for Christmas and selling ornaments, crafts, wine, and seasonal goods. The town was largely untouched by World War II, and it shows. Timbered houses lean slightly inward, wine cellars are tucked into ground floors, and vineyards stretch out in every direction beyond the walls. Walking through Riquewihr felt like stepping back several centuries, with very little breaking the illusion. It is compact, beautiful, and incredibly atmospheric.
Bite: White Asparagus Soup
White asparagus was everywhere in Alsace during our visit, and the soup we had in Kaysersberg was one of the most satisfying things we ate with this ingredient. White asparagus is prized in this part of Europe and is treated as a seasonal event rather than just a vegetable. Unlike green asparagus, it is grown underground, which keeps it pale and gives it a more delicate, slightly nutty flavor. The soup was hearty and warming, perfect for the cold, and served in a glass mug that we got to keep. It came with fresh baguette and felt both simple and indulgent. This was also a good moment to learn how Christmas market cups work. Drinks and soups are often served in collectible mugs, with a deposit built into the price. You pay a few extra euros up front, and if you return the cup to any stall in the market, you get that deposit back. You can also keep it as a souvenir. Either way, it is a useful system to understand early so that you don’t accidentally throw away money (like we did a few times before learning this process).
Highlight: Kaysersberg Christmas Market and Wine Hill Climb
Kaysersberg was another standout village and delivered one of the best experiences of the trip, including our Christmas card photo for the year! The town itself is postcard perfect, with a river running through the center that once powered several mills and still adds to the medieval feel. Above the town sits a tower perched on a hill, and the short hike up to it was absolutely worth the effort. From the top, you get sweeping views of the surrounding vineyards and rolling hills that define the Alsace wine region. It was a quick climb with a big payoff and gave us a real sense of place. The Christmas market below felt cozy and local, and the combination of natural scenery, history, and holiday atmosphere made this the most memorable highlight of the day.
Delight: Chocolate Croissant Pretzel
The unexpected delight of the day was a chocolate croissant dough pretzel. It was excellent on its own, but what really made it special was what it represented. Alsace has spent centuries moving back and forth between French and German influence, and this pastry somehow captured that entire history in one bite. A pretzel shape rooted in German tradition, made with buttery croissant dough from the French side, and filled with chocolate, a specialty of both cultures. It was warm, indulgent, and a perfect edible metaphor for the region.
Day 5: Frieburg



Overview of the Day:
Freiburg felt immediately different from everywhere else we visited on this trip. After days in Alsace villages and storybook towns, Freiburg read much more like a working city. It was less charming, more modern, and clearly shaped by history in a different way. This was our Germany day, and it delivered on contrast. Freiburg sits right at the edge of the Black Forest and is often described as a gateway to it. We wandered the city center, stumbled into its daily market happening alongside the Christmas market, and spent the afternoon soaking up what felt like a very local, very social scene. One day here was perfect, with no need to spend extra time in this city unless exploring the Black Forest.
Sight: Freiburg, A Town on the Edge of the Black Forest
Much of the old town was heavily damaged during World War II and later rebuilt, which gives the city a noticeably more modern feel. That said, it still has a strong sense of place. The city is dominated by Freiburg Minster, a massive Gothic cathedral that towers over everything else and immediately orients you when walking around. It’s traditional and modern roots of being a market town still shine through, as markets are part of daily life here, not just a seasonal event. We happened to be there on a day when the regular farmers market was running alongside the Christmas market, which was a fun overlap and gave the whole area a lively, everyday energy. From a hill just outside the city center, you can see the edges of the Black Forest rising in the distance and a taste of the fairytale woods that surround the city.
Bite: Freiburger Rote
The best sausage of the entire trip came from Freiburg, which felt appropriate given that we were now firmly in Germany. Freiburger Rote is a traditional local sausage made primarily from pork and beef, lightly seasoned, and grilled rather than smoked. It is typically served simply in a crusty roll with mustard, and that simplicity is what makes it so good. The sausage itself is juicy and flavorful without being overpowering, and the bread to sausage to mustard ratio was absolutely spot on. After days of sausages across France, this one stood out clearly as the winner. It was unfussy, hot, and exactly what you want to eat while standing outside in the cold with a drink in your other hand.
Highlight: Social, Oktoberfest Vibes Markets in Freiburg
The standout feature of Freiburg was the atmosphere. This market felt far more local than the others we visited, with fewer tourists and a noticeably more social crowd. You would see many young families and there were more beverages and food than at other Christmas markets, along with more places designed to stand, linger, and drink together. The vibe immediately reminded us of Oktoberfest, just scaled down and adjusted for winter. People were chatting with strangers, clustering around high tables, and clearly treating the market as a social gathering rather than a sightseeing stop. It was interesting to experience this side of German culture outside of the well-known Oktoberfest atmosphere, where communal drinking and conversation are central to the event itself. Freiburg may not have been the prettiest stop on the trip, but it was one of the most culturally revealing.
Day 6: basel




Overview of the Day:
Basel was our Switzerland introduction, and it immediately felt different in a quiet, composed way. First order of business, as we learned from visiting Switzerland in the past, find a nearby co-op for reasonably priced water, snacks, etc. Co-op stores have awesome food quality and the prices, for a very expensive country, are unbeaten. The city is polished without being flashy and feels historical without being “frozen in time”. We spent most of the day walking through the city and markets, which is really the right way to experience Basel. Between the Old Town, the river, and the markets clustered around the cathedral, everything flowed together naturally. This day felt less about chasing specific sights and more about appreciating how thoughtfully the city is put together.
Sight: Basel’s Old Town
Basel’s Old Town is best experienced on foot, and the city makes this easy by offering a well designed self guided walking tour. We picked up a map from the tourist office and followed plaques and markers embedded throughout the city, which guided us building by building and street by street. At a relaxed pace, the full walk took us about three hours and never felt rushed or repetitive. Basel is unique in that it sits at the meeting point of Switzerland, France, and Germany, and that crossroads identity shows up everywhere. The city is split by the Rhine River into Grossbasel and Kleinbasel, two halves with slightly different personalities that have historically functioned as distinct communities. Basel also played a central role in the Protestant Reformation, which helps explain why its cathedral, while beautiful, is more restrained than many of the grand Catholic cathedrals we saw elsewhere on the trip.
Bite: Fire Roasted Salmon

The fire roasted salmon in Basel was as much performance as it was meal. At the Christmas market stall, whole sides of salmon were mounted on wooden planks and slowly roasted in front of an open fire. Watching the setup alone was worth stopping for. The salmon was served hot with bread and a small salad, making it a perfect lunch that felt substantial without being heavy. The fish was flaky, smoky, and well seasoned, and eating it outside in the cold somehow made it even better. It was one of those meals where the simplicity and execution mattered more than anything else.
Highlight: Basel’s Cathedral Christmas Market Food
The Christmas market around Basel Minster was one of our favorites, especially for food and overall atmosphere. We visited both during the day and at night, and each had its own kind of magic. During the day, it felt family-focused and relaxed. In the evening, the lights and energy picked up without becoming overwhelming. This market stood out for how welcoming it felt for kids. There were small workshops set up where children could make candles, work with leather, and even ride a little train looping through the square. Food options were excellent across the board, and the hot chocolate here was the best of the entire trip, which felt appropriate now that we were in Switzerland. This is a market I would recommend to families traveling with kids.
Delight: Boat Ferry Across the Rhine
One of the most unexpectedly fun moments of the day came courtesy of the Rhine. Part of our walking route required crossing the river, but we were nowhere near a bridge. Instead, we used one of Basel’s small cable ferries. These boats are attached to a cable stretched across the river and rely entirely on the current to move from one side to the other. The ferryman adjusts the angle of the boat, and the force of the water does the rest. For a few francs paid in cash, you drift across in about five minutes. It is both practical and delightful, a piece of everyday infrastructure that also happens to be a memorable experience. Basel has excellent walking paths along both sides of the river, and this little crossing felt like a perfect expression of how thoughtfully the city works.
Day 7: ZUrich



Overview of the Day:
Our final day brought us to Zurich, which felt like a fitting place to end the trip. After moving through small villages, regional hubs, and border towns, Zurich felt confident, polished, and distinctly Swiss. This was a slower, wandering day with no real agenda beyond walking, eating, and soaking in the last of the Christmas atmosphere.
Sight: Zurich’s City Center
Zurich is Switzerland’s largest city and its financial and cultural engine, and that role is immediately apparent when you walk through it. The city grew wealthy early due to its position along key trade routes and later cemented its global importance through banking, finance, and a strong tradition of political stability. That sense of wealth is subtle but unmistakable. Everything feels well-maintained, orderly, and intentional. We started our walk near the opera house by our hotel, where a large Christmas market focused almost entirely on international food reflected Zurich’s global nature. From there, we crossed the river and wandered both sides of the old town, comparing narrow, winding medieval streets with broader, more open promenades. Zurich feels layered rather than preserved, with history integrated into a city that is very much alive and modern.
Bite: Fondue in a Swiss Chalet

Fondue in Zurich was exactly what we wanted it to be. This was our only fondue of the trip, and it could not have been better, unless we were on top of the mountains. We ate inside a temporary wooden chalet set up within the Christmas market inside Zurich’s main train station, which was a surprisingly cool setting. Swiss Christmas markets feel noticeably more put-together and modern than those elsewhere, and the chalet experience reflected that. The fondue was rich, cozy, and deeply satisfying, served the traditional way with bread and potatoes only. No apples, no meat, no experiments. Swiss cheese fondue knows exactly what it is doing. The pickled vegetables on the side were a perfect contrast to cut through the richness, and the whole experience felt comforting. With plenty of chalets operating, there was no chaos, no reservations needed, and no stress for an ideal winter dinner.
Highlight: Zurich’s Singing Christmas Tree
The Singing Christmas Tree was a wonderful way to close out the trip. Built as a tiered riser in the shape of a Christmas tree, the structure hosts rotating choirs throughout the season. We arrived about thirty minutes early and found a crowd gathering that grew quite large, with the feeling that I was at a Junior High choir recital. That evening’s performers were from the English Primary School of Zurich, all of whom were about 8-10 years old. Watching a group of kids sing English Christmas songs in the heart of Switzerland was unexpectedly charming. The performance lasted about thirty minutes and struck a perfect balance between festive and heartfelt. It was not flashy or overproduced, just joyful.
Like this itinerary? How to book:
For us, this trip took place from November 24 through December 2, which I would absolutely recommend for a Christmas markets itinerary like this. Be careful though, as this was the first week that the markets were open. We timed it precisely for opening week, so you don’t want to be too early. By late November, markets across France, Germany, and Switzerland are fully open and decorated, but the peak December crowds have not yet arrived. Flights tend to be cheaper than closer to Christmas, hotels are more available, and the overall experience feels festive without being overwhelming plus, you had the advantage of time off already baked in due to the thanksgiving holiday.
Be warned of Europe in the winter. Days are short, temperatures are cold, and you should expect rain or snow most of the time. Some smaller towns slow down or completely shut down midweek (e.g. the Alsace towns were really only open for tourism on the weekend). However, it is moot given the Christmas markets don’t happen any other time.
This itinerary is best for travelers who are ok walking, moving between towns frequently (i.e. one town a day), sometimes eating outdoors in cold weather at the markets, and embracing a fast but intentional pace. Seven days was perfect, and I would not recommend longer – if anything, you could do a 6 day itinerary and be great. It is important to keep moving from town to town, though. For some places, you wish you would just stop and savor the town for days on end. I don’t think that is the approach for this itinerary. The fun really comes through visiting different types of markets in different towns. The markets start to become a repeat of the same thing every day if you don’t and, again, a reason I would stick to 7 days tops.
Step 1: Book Flights [120 – 180 days out]
For this trip, I booked an open-jaw itinerary flying into Paris Charles de Gaulle from SEA (which I had to book a positioning from from my SLC based to SEA) and out of Zurich to JFK (which I had to book another positioning flight from JFK to my SLC base). On most airline websites this is booked via “multi-city” option. This avoided backtracking and allowed the trip to move cleanly east across the region. The primary reason I booked this was because there was a fantastic unicorn fare for this specific flight path (SEA – CDG / ZRH – JFK) in DeltaOne that I couldn’t pass up. If I was booking for convenience, the starting and ending place would be my SLC base instead of SEA and JFK respectively. However, worth looking into if you’re also chasing a business class redemption. As you look at flights, there are a few routes that I could check out and see what works best for you if using points or miles (see my section above on this):
- SEA ➝ CDG | ZRH ➝ JFK (Pros: good price coming out of SEA | Cons: train from CDG to Alsace, ZRH airport, and departing / arriving at different places in the USA requiring extra flights to be booked)
- JFK➝ CDG | ZRH ➝ JFK (Pros: good price coming out of JFK – can fly Air France for cheaper rate | Cons: train from CDG to Alsace, ZRH airport)
- USA ➝ SXB | SXB ➝ USA (NOTE: USA is not an airport code, just wherever you’re flying from. Pros: roundtrip flight can be easier to navigate, landing in Strasbourg reduces travel time to base destination saving you a half day at the beginning, small airpot generally leads to easier conditions to navigate | Cons: train from ZRH Strasbourg is 2.5 hours and added cost which could be negated by skipping Zurich as the train from Basel to Strasbourg is quick, will require a europe-based layover, likely in CDG so make sure the layover is long enough that you don’t get stuck at CDG)
- USA ➝ CDG | CDG ➝ USA (NOTE: USA is not an airport code, just wherever you’re flying from. Pros: roundtrip flight can be easier to navigate, CDG is a major hub and so great points and miles fares especially via airfrance are common, could spend a day in Paris | Cons: still need to take the train from CDG to colmar but also need to take train from Zurich back to CDG (however, both trains are high-speed at 3hrs and 4hrs respectively – beware of price and book ahead), CDG is also a bad airport (but not as bad as Zurich), overall will reduce the amount of time you have to ‘see things’)
Step 2: Book Hotels [90 – 120 days out]
Look at my individual hotel reviews in the blog to determine if they are right for you before booking.
| Trip Nights | City | Hotel | Method |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1, 2 | Colmar | L’Esquisse Hotel and Spa Colmar | Transfer points Cap1 to Accor: BOOK |
| 3, 4 | Strasbourg | Hotel Léonor | Via Capital One Portal or Direct BOOK |
| 5 | Freiburg | Courtyard by Marriott Freiburg | Via Capital One Portal or Bonvoy Points: BOOK |
| 6 | Basel | Hotel D Basel | Via Capital One Portal or Direct: BOOK |
| 7 | Zurich | Ambassador Zurich Hotel | On Points via Hilton: BOOK |
Step 3: Transportation and Activities to book in advance [30 – 60 days out]
Long Train Legs
I recommend booking the following routes in advance via the trainline app:
- CDG Terminal 2 ➝ Colmar (will include 1 train transfer at Strasbourg)
- If you’re not departing from Zurich, any trains that you need to get back to your departure location (if high-speed, like back to CDG)
Colmar Christmas Shuttle Buses
Weekend shuttle service leaves from Colmar train station and connects through key villages. The best ones to go to are those that we went to. If you have an extra day, Munster would be worth checking out but you need to purchase these online, well in advance. Look them up “Navette de Noel” and see the earliest you can book then book the all-inclusive pass for the day so that you’re covered for what you want to do. Ticketing opens up typically about 30 days in advance.
Step 4: iTEMS YOU WILL BOOK WHILE ON THE TRIP
| Item | City | What to Know |
|---|---|---|
| Dinner Reservations | Colmar, Strasbourg, Zurich | 7-14 days in advance you should book dinners for any restaurant that you particularly would like to visit in these cities. Reservations will fill up if you’re trying to get a michelin experience or other fun outing and break from the cold markets. |
| Spa Visit | Colmar | Spa access included with hotel stay at L’Esquisse. No advance booking required, just timing around dinner plans. |
| Christmas market food and drinks | All Cities | Entirely spontaneous. No planning needed beyond showing up hungry and warm. Just remember that your cup will get you a deposit (in cash) back! |
| Basel Walking Tour | Basel | Self guided old town walking route picked up from the tourist office on arrival. |
| Cathedrals | All Cities | None of these cities require advanced booking to enter the Cathedral. Just show up! |
Step 5: Daily flow
| Day | AM | Late AM | PM | Late PM | Evening |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 (Colmar) | Train to Colmar | Hotel Check In | Walk Old Town | Markets | Markets |
| 2 (Mulhouse) | Train to Mulhouse | Town Center Markets | Car Museum | Return to Colmar, Spa | Dinner (restaurant) |
| 3 (Strasbourg) | Train to Strasbourg | Markets | Markets | Rest | Markets |
| 4 (Aslace Villages) | Train to Colmar, Shuttle Bus | Riquewihr | Kaysersberg | Return to Strasbourg | Dinner (restaurant) |
| 5 (Freiburg) | Train to Freiburg (2 transfers) | City & Hill climb | Markets | Markets | Markets |
| 6 (Basel) | Train to Basel | Old Town Walking Route | Old Town Walking Route | Markets | Markets (+/- restaruant dinner) |
| 7 (Zurich) | Trian to Zurich | Markets | Walk through old town | Markets / Fondue Chalet | Markets / Singing Tree |
STep 6: Tips, Tricks, and Things to Know
- Dress for standing still in the cold: Christmas markets involve a lot of standing, not just walking. Layers matter as you’ll have some colder days and some slightly warmer days. Dress very very warm and plan for precipitation.
- Shoes for warmth and walking: You will walk a lot on cobblestones and stand on cold ground. Waterproof, broken-in shoes with wool, warm socks.
- Expect rain and occasional snow: Late November and early December in this region often means rain. A compact umbrella is worth packing. We relied on hotel umbrellas when available, but you cannot count on that. When it rains at night, sometimes it is worth it to not fight it, find a cozy cafe or restaurant and enjoy food inside vs. the markets. Be prepared to be flexible with the weather.
- Learn the cup deposit system early: Most markets serve drinks in reusable mugs with a deposit built into the price. You get that deposit back when you return the mug to any stall in the market. It is easy to accidentally throw away money if you do not know this.
- Carry some cash: Germany & France in particular still rely heavily on cash at the markets. Although many places are card friendly, you’ll encounter a lot of cash-only so plan for this. Switzerland is mostly card friendly and sometimes card only.
- Build in downtime, particularly in the break from early PM to Evening and be weary of when you book dinner reservations: Spas, cafes, and hotel breaks make winter travel much more enjoyable. These days are not meant to be packed and most the markets close at 8pm! So, if you’re game for a late tavern dinner, plan your reservation times accordingly as making a 6:30pm dinner reservation will mean missing the markets entirely that night. The Colmar spa was a trip highlight and helped balance cold, busy days.